Electrical

This section introduces you to the components of the Lustron’s electrical system and describes their most common problems and recommended solutions. It also addresses the problems associated with the installation of newer technologies in the home.

Location of Electrical Service Panel
Location of Electrical Service Panel
What Is It?

The electrical system of the Lustron house is similar to that of most homes of the period: all electricity flows into the home through a service panel which is a metal box. Inside the box, the electricity is divided into circuits, each of which provides power, via the wiring, to specific fixtures, outlets and appliances. In case something runs amiss, circuit breakers or fuses cut all power to a circuit when it is overloaded. Lustrons feature a 60 amp service panel. The wiring consists of copper-wire strands run through 1-/2 inch flexible metal conduit (VX) within the walls to provide service to the door chimes, fan, thermostat, vents, and appliances, ungrounded outlets (number varied), and lights (outside, kitchen, hall, medicine cabinet, dinette, porch, and utility room),,. The Lustron house was pre-wired in each wall section at the factory. During on-site assembly, the contractor would make the necessary electrical connections to join the conduit at the wall intersections. Unless there has been some type of trauma or damage to the system, the wiring should still be in good shaper and serviceable for many years to come as it has been protected inside the VX cable.

How it Works

 

The main electrical feed enters the house near the rear door to the kitchen (see illustration above and EM-02-K-80.1). It passes through an electric meter before entering a service panel or as described in the Erection Manual, the multi-breaker panel. The multi-breaker panel is located behind an access panel in the service wall that separates the utility room from the bathroom. The Lustron Corporation utilized panels that employed circuit breakers instead of fuses, which were still in use at the time.

As was standard for the time, the service panel was originally a 60 amp panel designed to handle six individual circuits, which are represented by the following individual circuit breakers (Westchester Deluxe 02-AP2-L-101):

Circuit No. 1 Lighting Circuit No. 14 conductor 2 wire 110V 15 amp (EM-02-K-11.11)
Circuit No. 2 Lighting Circuit No. 14 conductor 2 wire 110V 15 amp (EM-02-K-22.11)
Circuit No. 3 Heating System No. 14 conductor 2 wire 110V 15 amp (EM-02-K-40.1)
Circuit No. 4 Range No. 6 conductor 3 wire 220V 50 amp (EM-02-K.31.1l)
Circuit No. 5 Water Heater No. 12 conductor 2 wire 220V 20 amp
Circuit No. 6 Appliances No. 12 conductor 3 wire 110V 20 amp
Dishwasher No. 12 conductor 2 wire 220V 20 amp
Circuit No. 7 Chimes No. 18 Bell Wire 10V (EM-02-K-61.1)

Circuit No. 5 for the hot water heater is controlled by a separate 20 amp, 2 pole circuit breaker, while the No. 6 circuit is branched with a No. 12 conductor-2 wire to feed small appliances and the Thor dishwasher/clothes washer at 110 volts. The panel is grounded with no. 4 bare copper wire attached to the cold water supply pipe on the exterior wall side of the water meter.

Toggle Switch
Toggle Switch
Electric wiring inside of flexible VX conduit runs from the panel to the various flush-type duplex outlets, flush type toggle switches (left), incandescent light fixtures, door chimes, and appliances throughout the house. (West Deluxe 02 AP2-L-100-1)

Although some of these fixtures may have been replaced over time, the following list is representative of the original lighting provided in the Westchester 023 Model:

Kitchen - one shaded fixture holding three 60-watt bulbs

Dinette - one semi-indirect fixture holding two 75-watt bulbs

Utility Room - one wall-mounted shaded fixture holding two 60-watt bulbs (photo)

Hallway - one wall-mounted bracket holding a single 60-watt bulb (photo)

Living Room - Wall receptacles for portable lighting.

Bedrooms - Wall receptacles for portable lighting.

Bathroom - two 40-watt tubular lamps attached to wall cabinet and and one wall-mounted shaded fixture holding a single 60-watt bulb.

Front Porch - one shaded bracket-type fixture holding a 60-watt bulb.Rear Entrance - One bracket-type fixture holding a 60-watt bulb.

Originally the Lustron was designed to provide conduit from the outlet box for future telephone installation. The telephone lead-in wire was clipped to the face of the gable end and underside of the eaves to end the house as the same location as the electrical service.

EM-02-80.1–Service Entrance Illustration Electrical and Telephone
EM-02-80.1–Service Entrance Illustration Electrical and Telephone

For more detailed information on the electrical system, the circuits, and the installation process, you may want to review the appropriate sections of the Erection Manual and Specifications listed below:

Erection Manual

Westchester Deluxe Architectural Plans Model 02 Home

  • Electrical Floor Plan and Heating System Diagram - AP2-L-100-1
  • Electrical Circuits-Diagrams - AP2-L-101
  • Master Specifications - 1949 Revisions
  • Electrical - See Section L, page 15-16
  • Appliances - See Section L, pages 16-17 for information on materials.

The Electrical System

Common Problems and Repairs

Common complaints about the electric service in a Lustron are not much different than in most old houses. As our demand for more electric has grown, the once modern electric service of the Lustron may seem outdated with too few outlets and not enough amperage. The guidelines below will help you address some of the most common complaints and repairs and provide links to the relevant section of the Erection Manual and other documentation. Reviewing the information below prior to consulting with an electrician will help you have a more informed discussion with your contractor.

Most standard sized homes built prior to the 1960’s were equipped with a 60 amp electrical service. This size of service was reasonably well-suited to the needs of living at the time. However, the search for convenience and the proliferation of a multitude of home electronics has generally increased the demand on the electrical systems of homes today.

It is becoming a common view that electrical services less than 100 amps are inadequate, therefore unsafe and therefore, they must be upgraded. However, it is important to remember that smaller electrical services, like in the Lustron are not automatically rendered unsafe because they are only 60 amps; however the smaller service does limit the amount of appliances and home electronics that can be used at one time.

A common mistake is to assume that the ampacity (size, or capacity) of a home’s electrical service is determined by checking the main breaker or fuses or the rating imprinted on the panel. This is not the way to do it; the size of an electrical service is established by the ampacity (capacity) of the incoming service wires. The only reliable method of determining the size of the service is to correctly identify the size of the incoming wires and the related equipment (mast, meter base, etc.). If you are unsure what the capacity of your system is, enlist the help of a qualified electrician to assess your system to determine if your system is adequate for the potential or expected load (amount of electricity) it will be required to carry. If you are constantly popping or blowing the breaker switches, the service is probably undersized. If this is the case, scroll down to the Advanced Solutions where you will find information on what to do if your circuit breaker is constantly overloading.

WARNING

Building codes vary from state to state. Your state may require that any electrical work be conducted by a licensed contractor or electrician. Before beginning any work, check with your local building department to see what codes are in place and what the review and compliance procedure is. In many areas you will need a building permit to do electrical work. Remember that doing any electrical work can be very dangerous, we recommend hiring a licensed electrician. For information on finding an qualified electrical contractor, visit the website of the National Electrical Contractors Association. click here. For more information on using electricity safely visit, the Electrical Safety Foundation.

Avoid Drama—Hire a Licensed Professional to do your Electric Work. Image Courtesy Library of Congress.
Avoid Drama—Hire a Licensed Professional to do your Electric Work. Image Courtesy Library of Congress.

Simple Solutions

My duplex outlets do not accommodate a grounded (3-prong) plug

The Lustron system is a grounded system and—as a general rule—it is not against code to have only ungrounded plugs. Always check you local codes to confirm what regulations apply in your area. Although your outlets might be code compliant, today, many major appliances and computers have grounded plugs that do not fit into older ungrounded outlets. If your outlets are damaged or you would like to switch specific outlets for a grounded version, contact an electrician to replace the individual plugs as required. Note that most building codes now require that GFI (Ground Fault Interceptor) outlets be installed in areas near water, such as your kitchen or bathroom. A GFI outlet is a sort of miniature circuit breaker that shuts off the power to the switch in the case of s short circuit it is intended to protect you from electrical shock and prevent your wiring and breaker panel from being shorted outn your bathroom and kitchen, given the proximity to water in those locations. Your electrician can install GFI outlets in your kitchen and bathroom.

I need/want to replace my switches with new switches or dimmer switches

There are no problems changing out the switches so long as they maintain the polarity (ie keep the white wire and black wire going to the switch in the same manner as the original).

My duplex outlets do not accommodate a grounded (3-prong) plug

The Lustron system is a grounded system and-as a general rule-it is not against code to have only ungrounded plugs. Always check your local codes to confirm what regulations apply in your area. Although your outlets might be code compliant, today, many major appliances and computers have grounded plugs that do not fit into older ungrounded outlets. If your outlets are damaged or you would like to switch specific outlets for a grounded version, contact an electrician to replace the individual plugs as required. Note that most building codes now require that GFI (Ground Fault Interceptor) outlets be installed in areas near water, such as your kitchen or bathroom. A GFI outlet is a sort of miniature circuit breaker that shuts off the power to the switch in the case of s short circuit it is intended to protect you from electrical shock and prevent your wiring and breaker panel from being shorted out in your bathroom and kitchen, given the proximity to water in those locations. Your electrician can install GFI outlets in your kitchen and bathroom.

Intermediate Solutions

I need to install smoke detectors and/or carbon dioxide detectors

Smoke and carbon dioxide detectors are critical life safety tools that should be in every home. Do not install these using double-sided tape as a means to avoid damaging your panel. The tape could soften during a fire, dropping the sensor to the floor when it is needed most. Given the importance of their function, it is advisable to permanently install these units. Look for units that detect both smoke and carbon dioxide to reduce the number of penetrations required in your panels. If you are using the original radiant heating system, install your detectors on the wall panels to prevent damage to the plenum.

Utilizing a drill bit intended for porcelain surfaces, drill holes for the installation screws following the instructions provided by the manufacturer. As you update smoke detectors over the years, you should be able to reuse the existing holes. Check your local codes to determine if your smoke detectors are required to be hard-wired into your electrical system. If your are still using the radiant heating system, review, the sections of the Erection Manual and familiarize yourself with the heating system. Discuss where to locate the smoke detectors with your electrician so that the system will not be damaged.

The National Fire Protection Association has tips on installing and maintaining a smoke detector. For more info click here:

My circuit breaker is constantly overloading.

If the service is undersized for the current demands, increasing the size of the service is one option; an alternative is to reduce the quantity of heavy loads such as the oven, clothes dryer or water heater. Central air-conditioners also draw heavy current and the installation of one may require the upgrading of the electrical service. The first step is to assess if your current service is adequate for your needs.

To determine which appliances and electronics are drawing the most power consider investing in an electric usage monitor also called a power cost monitor (brand names include Kill-A-Watt and T.E.D, the Energy Detective). This is a small device (usually under $50) which measures how much electricity is being consumed by your appliances and electronics. Some of the devices can even translate that usage into a dollar amount. You might discover that selective operation of your appliances (such as your washing machine) and home electronics (television) is a simple way to address the problem.

Alternately, the US Department of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy (EERE) has a section of their website devoted to Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use. As stated on the web site, “if you’re trying to decide whether to invest in a more energy-efficient appliance or you’d like to determine your electricity loads, you may want to estimate appliance energy consumption.” To learn more click here:

Reducing consumption of electricity is an inexpensive and relatively easy way to address the problem. When purchasing new appliances and electronics, look for products that have a good Energy Star Rating, for more information on the Energy Star rating click here. Installing compact fluorescent units (CFUs) to replace your incandescent lights can dramatically reduce energy cost and consumption. According to the US Department of Energy, “an average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Using new lighting technologies can reduce lighting energy use in your home by 50% to 75%.”

The steps above can help you reduce consumption and get an idea of which appliances and electronics in your home consume the most energy and avoid overloading your circuits. If your circuits are still overloading, you might need to consider an upgrade. Consider engaging the services of a qualified professional to evaluate not only your system’s present condition, but also your anticipated electrical needs for the future. Make sure that you have the relevant pages of the Erection Manual handy for him or her to inspect when they come to evaluate your system.

I need to upgrade my service

Upgrading the panel in a Lustron can be a challenge because the new panels are usually larger than those that were originally installed and now include access doors over the breakers. Local building codes might impact the type of service you must install and where the new service can be located.

There are two options to consider when upgrading the service:

  1. If allowed by code, your electrician can remove the original panel and install a new 100 amp panel in the existing location. If you want the new service panel to fit in the space of the existing panel, your electrician will need measure the opening to ensure the door on the front of the new panel is no larger than the existing opening to allow it to open inside the existing access panel on the service wall. Many owners have found service panels that fit into the existing space. By removing the existing electrical panel, the electrician should be able to mount the new panel to the metal studs in the same location as the original panel.
  2. The electrician can also separate some of the circuits to new breakers, allowing less demand for each circuit. In the original circuit configuration, several plugs and lights came together or are wired in series. Each branch may contain several plugs and lights which is why, when say you have all the lights on and start plugging things in to every outlet, the circuit break will trip. By separating out some of the plugs, so each goes to a separate breaker, your electrician can reduce the demand on any individual breaker thereby reducing trips. A qualified electrician should be consulted to assist in this process.
  3. The other option is to enlarge the opening of the existing access panel to accommodate a new electrical panel. We discourage this approach, as it will damage the porcelain-enamel metal panels of the utility room service wall. If you feel it is necessary to upgrade to a 200 amp panel, enlarging the existing opening in the wall panel will be necessary to accommodate the larger housing required by a 200 amp panel. Because the service panel is located behind the access panel, if you do not enlarge the opening of the access panel, you will not be able to open the door of the new electrical panel. Given the relatively small size of a Lustron home, it is unlikely that a 200 amp panel would be required. The additional cost and damage associated with its installation do not make a 200 amp panel a good option.

I’m ready to take off my panels off!

If you have or are planning on embarking a major rehabilitation by taking off the interior panels, then you can run new electrical wiring, cable, Ethernet and telephone wiring as would be done in any rehabilitation project. The difference will come with the removal of the panels and the installation of new plugs in the wall panels themselves. The first step is to carefully plan the installation of the new system to minimize the damage to the panels and to locate the outlets as inconspicuously as possible.

The interior panels must be removed in the reverse order of how the were assembled on site. Refer to the appropriate section of the Erection Manual to develop your strategy for the panel removal. For more information on the Panels click here.

To minimize the number of cuts you will need to make, to make room for outlets:

  • Consider installing telephone boxes that have the combination telephone jack and computer connection.
  • Rather than installing Ethernet cables, consider installing a wireless network.
  • Also, consider running the telephone and computer in conduit that makes a “home run” from each outlet to the utility room wall. With these home runs it will be easy to upgrade telephone and computer wiring as it changes over time by allowing you to “pull” new leads to the outlets you have installed.
  • You could also consider installing the new electric in conduit for the same reason. This might be required by local building codes. If you install conduit, in the future if you or a future owner wished to run new wiring, it would be a matter of pulling the old wire out of the conduit and pulling new wire to the outlet. Conduit will increase the cost of the re-wiring but will pay off in saved time and expense in the future by not having to disassemble the entire interior of your house!

Once the electrical system is installed, you or your contractor will need to cut each individual panel where there will be an outlet. While the panels will be damaged, this seems to be a reasonable accommodation for modern needs.

How do I provide access for internet, telephone jacks and cable television?

Like running new electrical wires and installing new outlets, the options for easy installation of phone or coaxial cable to support cable or satellite are fairly limited in a Lustron. If you are doing a major electrical upgrade that requires the removal of the interior panels, these systems and their outlets could be added as part of that project. Fortunately, the increasing use of wireless technology helps to limit the possible damage and expense of adding these features to your Lustron.

Have you considered cordless?

Cordless telephones, with multiple handsets have greatly reduced the need for multiple phone jacks throughout the house. In most instances, since adding additional phone jacks requires drilling into the panels, our recommendation is to go with the cordless option.

Cable

For coaxial cable, consider running it along the baseboard just behind the black finish strip that masks the seam between the floor and wall. There is a small channel along the bottom of the bottom panel that would make a good place to tuck a coaxial cable. Be prepared to replace the molding with new vinyl base to match. The old base can be quite brittle and may break as you remove it. Vinyl base to match the original is readily available from most flooring stores. It is simple to install - ask from instructions from the flooring store who can also provide the proper adhesives to affix the base to the wall (this is how the original was installed). One note, you may need to remove the old mastic (adhesive). Again, the professionals at the floor store can help with advice about what could be used for removing the mastic. The biggest globs can be scraped off with a plastic scraper (so as not to scratch the porcelain). Products like Goo-gone have proven effective with removing some mastics. It is not important to get every spec off, since you will be installing new base again. However, it is necessary to get the globs off the wall so the new base lays flat along the panels.

Another option is to bury the cable around the exterior perimeter of the house. You can drill a hole through the outside wall into the room area that you wish to provide cable access. This option is less desireable because you would need to drill a hole in one of the exterior panels. Or you can enlarge one of the existing outlet locations to add a cable outlet The installer should use a drill bit designed for porcelain surfaces to limit damage to the panels. If enlarging an existing outlet opening, pre-drill a series of pilot holes. Then use a jigsaw fitted with an appropriate blade for metal/porcelain to create the new opening. Always caulk around the new opening where the cable enters the house.

To obtain internet access, have the cable enter the house at the same location as the main electric service and telephone service (near the rear entrance door). Then you can establish a wireless router in the utility room that will provide computer access to any room in the house.

Saving Energy

Once you’ve calculated your energy use, you might decide that it is time to invest in more energy efficient appliances. Click here for information from the EERE Consumers Guide on Shopping for Energy Efficient Appliances and Home Electronics.

When considering new appliances or upgrades, such as central air, electric floor radiant heat, or on-demand water heaters, consider the impact of this increased load on the capacity of your current electrical panel. Consult an electrician to determine the appropriate panel size for your needs.

When considering new appliances or upgrades, such as central air, electric floor radiant heat, or on-demand water heaters, consider the impact of this increased load on the capacity of your current electrical panel. Consult an electrician to determine the appropriate panel size for your needs.

My original lights have been removed or altered

Fortunately there are many sources for period appropriate lighting. A number of reproduction companies, like Rejuvination, now have mid-centuy lines, like their Atomic Age lighting.

Local antique lighting dealers and antique shops are starting to stock fixtures from this period. Ask a dealer for a referral to someone who might specialize in this era of fixture.

Visit Buy/Sell for hints and tips on acquiring original Lustron fixtures.

Resources:

Want to learn more about the history of wiring? Check out this excellent article titled Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. by David A. Dini, P.E. of the US Underwriters Laboratory.